Guide to the Baztán Valley (Navarra): the best things to see + 3/5 day route

If you are thinking Travel to the Baztan Valley, northern Navarre, you have come to the right place.

After having visited it in depth following the route of the Camino de Santiago BaztanésWe have prepared a guide with everything you need to know to visit this very special place.

The first thing we must do is understand the Baztán Valley

What is the Baztan Valley like?

El Baztán Valley It is a universe of forests, meadows, waterfalls and unique trees that share space with the spirits of local mythology and villages full of palaces.

There are two important concepts to understand this valley:

• It is at the western end of the Pyrenees Navarra, in the natural valley that forms from the border with France to Pamplona.
• Being a natural pass through the Pyrenees, the valley is crossed from north to south by the aforementioned Camino de Santiago Baztanés

Now the valley is easily reached, but until the creation of modern roads it was a relatively isolated area, and that is why it has developed a very peculiar culture and folklore, different from those of neighboring areas.

What is the Baztán Valley famous for?

El Baztán Valley is known mainly for 4 things:

• traditional architecture
• The Forests and their legends
• The Way of St. James in Baztan
• The Baztán Trilogy, the novels of Dolores Redondo

The forests are so lush and wild that they have given rise to many legends and mythological beings; and, in addition, whoever crosses them Camino de Santiago Baztanés, has given rise to all these legends being spread.

But what you don't usually imagine before traveling to the valley is how well kept all the towns are, and that's why it has sometimes been described, very daringly, as Navarrese Switzerland.

And in all of Navarre and in Baztán in particular, houses are not just buildings to live in, they are signs of family identity, and that is why it is very difficult to see houses in poor condition throughout the valley.

Many traditional houses of the valley They maintain the original structure that also reflects the organization of daily life, with the stables on the ground floor, the dwelling on the second floor, and the barn on the upper part, a space that served as insulation and storage.

Baztán Valley, setting of the Baztán Trilogy by Dolores Redondo

Although it is true that for many years the valley has been quite isolated, in recent years the valley has gained extraordinary fame.

And this is because it is the scene of the so-called Baztán trilogy, the exciting mystery stories created by the writer Dolores Round that develop in this area.

The success of the trilogy has attracted many visitors to the Baztán Valley, who wish to see the places described in the novels and films.

The 4 must-see places in the Baztán Valley

If you have come this far and are going to visit the valley, you will surely have the doubt of which places to visit are worth visiting.

There are four sites that stand out above the rest, Elizondo y love in the same valley, and zugarramurdi y Urdax in the vicinity of it arriving from France.

There are many other interesting places that I will tell you about in the part where I plan a route for you, but these four stand out above the rest and are fundamental pillars of a Journey through the Baztan Valley.

1. Elizondo, the capital of Valle

I start with Elizondo, because it is the administrative capital of this microcosm that is the Baztán Valley and the main setting for novels Dolores Round.

In Elizondo, wherever you look, you see ancient palaces, with coats of arms on the facades that attest to the tremendous aristocratic power it had years ago.

I give you two facts to understand Elizondo

• In Elizondo live 3.500 people of the 8.000 who reside in the valley in total, which shows how centralized the valley's population is in its capital.
• Elizondo is the only town in the entire valley that has its own town hall. Instead, the other 14 towns have a deputy mayor who represents them in the Elizondo City Hall.

The history of Elizondo cannot be understood without the “Indians"Baztans who traveled to America, who made a fortune and upon their return built large houses to demonstrate their success.

La Paularena House It is an example of these constructions, named in honor of the wife of one of these Indians.

One of the most curious historical figures of the valley is Braulio Iriarte Goyeneche, who emigrated to Mexico in 1860 and founded Model group, creators of the Corona beer.

Upon his return, he donated funds to build the fronton in Elizondo and the second church tower. In gratitude, one of the streets in Elizondo bears his name today.

What to see in Elizondo

Despite the importance of Elizondo for the Batán Valley, it is a fairly small town that can be visited in one morning, because it is basically two historic streets.

La Jaime Urrutia street, who was an illustrious neighbour who financed the construction of Elizondo and the parallel street of the old orchards. A street that served to expand the town.

If you are going to visit Elizondo, we recommend that you sign up for a tour because it's funny how much history there is in such a small space.

But to summarize, any Visit to Elizondo must include the sites that I am going to show you:

• El Elizondo City Hall, built in the 18th century, has a baroque-style ashlar façade and in the center, stands out the Coat of arms of the Baztán Valley, gift of the King Sancho the Strong in recognition of the participation of the inhabitants in the Battle of Navas de Tolosa in 1212.
• Following the street jamie urrutia You will find a succession of historic palaces like the Puriosenea House, also known as the House of the Moors, for its particular architecture,
• La Arizkunenea House, built in 1730 by Michael of Ariscun, who was promoted to Marquis of Iturbieta as a reward for their support of the crown, which allowed them to wear a crown on their shield and enjoy privileges such as not paying taxes and not attending war. Today, Arizkunenea is House of Culture, with offices, concert halls and classrooms for cultural activities.
• In Ziga Square The old one is located neighborhood mill, a communal place where the inhabitants of the valley brought their grains to be ground. This mill worked thanks to a dam that directed the force of the river towards the mill wheels.
• La Txokoto dam and bridge It is the typical image of Elizondo, the most beautiful corner of the city, without a doubt.
• On that same bridge, right in front you have the Hotel Trinkete where we stayed and which we definitely recommend, which is named after the ratchet where it is practiced Set Lax, Basque pelota in its oldest version

2. Zugarramurdi Cave 

Next to the French border is zugarramurdi, famous for the legends of witches and covens, and also known for being one of the main smuggling routes years ago.

Strictly speaking, it is not part of the Baztán Valley, but if you are in the area, you have to visit the cave yes or yes, as we did.

Known for the legends that surround it, it is believed that this cave was the scene of covens, meetings of witches where they worshipped the goat and performed rituals.

Legends mention practices such as flying on broomsticks and holding parties on Fridays.

El Trial of the Witches of Zugarramurdi that made this place so famous begins when the Inquisition visited the place.

From there, they accused hundreds of people of witchcraft and the condemned were taken to Logroño; In total, 11 people were sentenced to burning at the stake and 6 were burned alive at the stake.

Unlike other caves that usually have stalactites and stalagmites, this cave has a peculiar design: it is a open cave with an impressive main cavity or with a natural tunnel 120 metres long and notable for its dimensions.

3. Urdax, the beginning of the Baztanés Way 

Urdax It is the town that before arriving from the north to the Baztán Valley, welcomes the Baztan Way in Navarre, with a rich history dating back to the 11th century, when Augustinian monks established a hospital on the route of the Camino de Santiago.

The visit to Urdax is divided into two, the town of Urdax, with its monastery and mill, and the caves.

Urdax Monastery

The population of Urdax It evolved around its monastery, which became the center of economic and social power in the region.

La History of Urdax It reflects a past of ecclesiastical domination, revolution and reconstruction, with a prominent role for the Indians.

With the knowledge of mining and iron, the monks began to import iron ore from the mines of Bilbao and processed it in Urdax, an activity that generated enormous economic benefits.

Thanks to this activity, the monastery of Urdax came to have a library larger than that of the monastery itself. Kingdom of Navarra.

During the War of the Convention which pitted Spain against France in 1793, Urdax was invaded, destroying much of the town.

With la Disentailment of Mendizabal who confiscated the Church's property and put it up for sale, the monks could not maintain the monastery in the midst of wars and political changes, so they abandoned Urdax and returned to France.

This left Urdax devastated and without resources: the lands were for sale, but the former serfs of the monastery could not afford to buy them.

The solution to this crisis came from the Indians, sons of the monks' assistants in the iron trade who emigrated to America.

With the money they accumulated in America, these Indians returned to Urdax and, by selling their properties in Argentina, they allocated their fortunes to rebuild the village and the monastery.

This gesture allowed the revitalization of Urdax, and his contribution is remembered and honored in the community.

Today, Urdax preserves five large palace-houses built by the Indians that symbolize the wealth and effort of these emigrants.

Urdax cave

But Urdax is much more than a monastery.

This small mountain is full of different galleries, and there is a small river called Urxume, which runs through the town of Urdax and forms several caves.

La Ikaburu Cave It is accessible and adapted for general visitors.

Every year, around 30,000 to 35,000 people visit the cave, always in controlled and guided groups. Without this organisation, it would not be possible to see the bats.

Reservations can be made online and it is open all year round except for 15-20 days in January, and is closed on Mondays outside of the high season, which is July and August.

4. Amaiur, the most beautiful village in the Baztán Valley

If I had to choose one town in the entire valley, that would definitely be it. love.

It is very small but it is beautiful, with only one sloping street, with all the houses perfectly maintained.

In fact, I tell you that the section that crosses the town and the beech forests around it seemed to us the most beautiful section of the Camino de Santiago Baztanés.

Furthermore, Amaiur is a historic town and you realize it as soon as you see the castle up above.

El Amaiur castle, is a symbol for the Navarrese, since it was the last bastion where Castilla conquered the kingdom of Navarre.

This castle has great historical importance, not only for its role in the defense of the kingdom, but also for its strategic location in the the Camino de Santiago, since it is one of the entrances to Navarra.

The castle was also a checkpoint where rights of passage were collected, which increases its importance. This role linked the castle to the village, forming a close bond between the two.

5-day route through the Baztán Valley

Elizondo, Zugarramurdi, Urdax and Amaiur are undoubtedly the top sites in the Baztán Valley and its surroundings, but that doesn't mean it's the only thing you should see in this area.

Now I'm going to propose one to you. route through the Baztán Valley day by day, following the axis of Camino de Santiago Baztanés, in which I will include other visits, restaurants and hotels so that you can make the same trip that we have made.

You can adapt this route to your time availability, from 3 days to 5 days, including its extension to Pamplona.

In our case, Pamplona was the beginning and the end of our route through the Baztán Valley, and we stayed at the Three Kings Hotel, from where we left early to arrive that same morning at Zugarramurdi and begin the route, and where we returned to spend the last night of the trip.

Day 1, Zugarramurdi, Urdax and eating at a tavern

Zugarramurdi and Urdax They are the towns that are on the border of Navarre with France and are the prelude to the Baztán Valley.

This whole area deserves a whole day, starting early in the morning with the Zugarramurdi cave.

The best time to visit is when it is open, because if you are lucky and visit when the fog that is so characteristic of the mornings in this area has not yet lifted, you can be amazed by the atmosphere that is generated. Remember that it is an absolutely magical area.

Don't be scared if you find some mythological being in the mountains like the basjaun, who is only dedicated to helping villagers.

Right next door you have the Zugarramurdi Witch Museum, don't leave without visiting it.

Urdax Caves

A very short distance away, the Urdax cavesRemember to book online before visiting, but this cave must be included, because it is completely different from Zugarramurdi and the perfect complement with stalactites and stalagmites.

To eat, go to one of the many sales which are stores that are in the border with France.

They are very peculiar places where the French go to buy because the prices are lower than in their country, and as many come from cities 300 kilometers away, the place is full of restaurants where you can eat luxury.

Since they are all French, keep in mind that they eat very early, according to European time.

In the afternoon, visit the town and the Urdax Monastery, where there is a pilgrims' hostel.

Stop by the tourist office which is behind the monastery so they can show you the old millIt's amazing to see something like this that still works.

Day 2, Otsondo Bunkers, Amaiur and the Forests ofthe Baztan Valley

Actually although we are on the second day of the route through the Baztán Valley, we haven't entered it yet, and that's what we're going to do on the second day.

To fully understand what I am telling you, you have to leave Urdax and go up to Otxondo port, geographical point where France is on one side and Spain on the other.

And that's why it's an area full of batteries. bunkers of the Civil War, and it will be the first stop of the day.

After Civil War, the new Francoist government began to build batteries to protect itself from the possibility of an attack by the Allies to restore the Republican order. That never happened, but said bunkers have remained in the landscape leaving a mark of history.

From here the beech and chestnut forests perfect for touring the the Camino de Santiago until you reach love.

A must-see visit to Amaiur castle and village and you can have something to drink at the mill (check if it is open before you go because it has some strange hours).

Convent of the Poor Clares in Arizcun

The day ends in Arizkun, also protagonist of the Baztán trilogy.

Here is the Convent of the Poor Clare Sisters, with its imposing baroque façade, which stands out in such a small town.

Just like the legendary palace of the Ursúa, solar of the lineage of Peter of Ursua, founder of Colombian Pamplona, ​​who died on an expedition in search of Eldorado in the Amazon basin.

You can sleep in the town itself, where we did, in the Gontxea Country House.

Day 3, visit to Elizondo 

One of the things that most attracts attention in the Baztán Valley is nature, since we are in the greenest of the pyrenean valleys, town of beech forests, oak forests and chestnut forests alternating with evergreen pastures.

Morning mists often create a magical atmosphere and it is easy to imagine the lamias and other characters from local folklore deep in the woods and next to waterfalls.

Oinaska waterfall

That is why we recommend a morning walk to visit the Oinaska waterfall, a short but wonderful trail.

Afterwards, a day spent leisurely visiting Elizondo, where I recommend eating the Restaurant Juli, with a daily menu where the ideal would be beans, trout and Basque cake for dessert.

One option you can do in Elizondo that is crazy and ideal for releasing adrenaline is to visit Baztan Adventure, with some enormous zip lines, and even a pendulum to throw yourself into the void.

A brutal experience not suitable for people with vertigo

Dinner and accommodation in Elizondo, specifically, Goiz Alde for dinner, and for sleeping, the aforementioned Trinkete hotel, which also has apartments and a hotel, so you can choose.

Day 4, from Irurita to Pamplona

In this area there are several towns, villages and very interesting cultural aspects of the area.

I recommend visiting two towns with tower houses, something very typical of this area, and a characteristic of the baztanese architecture dating back to the Middle Ages.

Specifically, iruritaWith its Dorrea tower house, and oronoz, with the Arretxea Palace. and the Jaureguía tower house, a Gothic construction from the 16th century.

They are perfect historical places for guided tours, since it is the residential area of ​​the oldest lineages, some from the 13th century, who enjoyed many privileges and were one of the peculiarities of the kingdom of Navarre.

Baztan Valley Viewpoint

It is worth taking into account berroeta a secondary road leading to Zigaurre to reach the known Baztan Valley viewpoint (I can't show it to you because we didn't have enough time to see it, as we got too caught up looking at the tower houses).

From this viewpoint you can see a good part of the valley and discover its characteristic landscape with farmhouses, pastures and forests covering the slopes.

You also can visit Almandoz or any of the dolmens or prehistoric burial mounds that crowd the valley. Searching for them is the perfect excuse to start a walk through the woods.

For lunch, I'm going to make you a slightly crazy recommendation, but it's brutal.

Eating in a farmhouse in the forest

And I say a little crazy because it is not close to anything, you have to go specifically to eat at a farmhouse in the middle of the forest, which is called Etxebertzeko embroiders.

You will have to take a 40-minute drive through the woods to reach an absolutely magical spot in the valley where there is no cover or anything like that; they are specialists in trout, as they have a hatchery.

Before you leave, don't forget to take a walk through the forest from the farmhouse to visit the Infernuko Errota mill.

In the afternoon, on the way to Pamplona.

Until about 25 years ago, for Go from the Baztán Valley to Pamplona, the road had to overcome the Belate port.

Now you go through one of the longest tunnels in the Peninsula And suddenly we left the mountains to reach the wide horizons of the flat lands.

Day 5, visit to Pamplona

The last day of our proposed tourist route (which can also be the first day of the route) is the one we dedicate to Visit Pamplona.

This city is famous for its festivals San Fermin It is much more than just festivals linked to bullfights.

In few places you can eat pinchos as good as here, plus there are plenty of interesting places to visit.

• Don't forget to check out this specific article with the best places to see in Pamplona