What to see in Maderuelo, Segovia: Romanesque churches and the Riaza Gorges

The villa of Maderuelo It is one of the best and oldest examples of medieval urban planning that we can find on the Peninsula.

It is not surprising since what we see now is the direct inheritance of the town that flourished in the early days of the County of Castile.

Maderuelo It is located in the northeastern corner of the Segovia province, close to Soria and Burgos, and is one of the best stages on a tourism getaway in this area.

Maderuelo It is one of those towns that are worth the trip in themselves, but as there are also other interesting places in the surrounding area, it becomes a very interesting destination for a Weekend getaway.

Getaway to Maderuelo and the Hoces del Río Riaza

Eg visit to Maderuelo can be combined with a walk through the Hoces del Río Riaza natural park, which is located a very short distance away.

In this way, a good example of medieval architectureConsidered A Cultural in the category of historical complex, with an excellent example of the best nature of Castilla y León.

En MaderueloIn addition, we find several accommodations y restaurants, so it can be a good base for a complete tour of the eastern end of the province of Segovia.

Curiosities of the history of Maderuelo

Everything indicates that the history of Maderuelo It is very old and this hill, well located next to the river, with good resources in the surroundings, has been populated for many centuries.

El Maderuelo that we know now retains its status as Villa and Land, the head of a community founded in times of the first Christian settlements on the border of the Duero after the expulsion of the Muslims.

A chronicle of the time refers to Maderuelo , the Castro Maderolum and it was one of the fortresses reconquered in 1010 after having been previously taken and lost on several occasions.

In its heyday it had jurisdiction over twenty villages.

Proof of that good moment that he lived is that it is known that Maderuelo It had more than ten churches.

At the end of the 13th century, the border was established further south and new territories had to be repopulated, which was often done by depopulating other places.

Many regions of the current Segovia province They lived through this process, and that is why we sometimes have the feeling that we are in places frozen in time.

This sensation is due to the fact that many villages were abandoned for some centuries and therefore did not experience the urban evolution that they would have followed when populated.

That is why we also find samples of most archaic Romanesque art in its churches, since it has not undergone the normal evolution of the temples used and renovated over time.

What to see when visiting Maderuelo, our experience

For all this it has remained in Maderuelo un old town with a strong medieval aftertaste, with its houses and churches, in addition to the Ermita de la Veracruz which is located in depopulated areas.

In fact it is said that this historic helmet at the top of a hill is the best preserved example of medieval Castilian fort.

Without exaggeration, we can say that the entrance to the historic center of Maderuelo It is one that is not forgotten.

From afar you can see the Arch of the Villa, the wall gate. It gives the impression that, by crossing it, we are going to take a leap back in time.

And there is some truth because, when doing so, strong mansions begin to appear that speak of the remains left by the centuries in this Castilian town.

It has already been said that Maderuelo It is located on a hill from where a large area is controlled from a privileged position.

A curious detail of this hill is that it has a flat and elongated top.

The urban layout follows the shape of the land, and that is why we have a village that is very long and narrow, a peculiar fact that gives it a very attractive character.

In reality there is only two streets in Maderuelo, the one above y the one below, which run parallel along their entire length and join at their ends, next to the Arch of the Villa and before the remains of the castle.

From time to time some alleys join the two streets.

Churches of San Miguel and Santa María

Of the many churches that are believed to have existed in Maderuelo, now only two remain, those of San Miguel y Santa Maria, which are a summary of history.

Part of the walls of the first were part of the defensive structure of the town, and the second has traces of Romanesque, Gothic, Mudejar and various other styles, the result of different reconstructions once the town was repopulated.

La pillory what's in front of the church of Santa Maria It looks very old, but it is actually part of the set that was created during the filming of the series Land of wolves.

It seems that it turned out so well that they left it there.

Maderuelo It is one of those places to walk aimlessly, but always ready to capture some interesting detail.

Any side street you take leads to some discovery, whether to another door of the wall or to the viewpoints that overlook the Linares reservoir and to the wide Castilian horizons.

From them you can see, somewhat distant to the right, the imposing silhouette of the Castrobodas Hermitage, overlooking the slope that falls to the Riaza River.

Romanesque frescoes in the Hermitage of Veracruz 

Down there, on the edge of the reservoir and almost hidden several months a year by the foliage of the riverbank trees, is the greatest treasure of all: the Ermita de la Veracruz.

You don't have to leave Maderuelo without visiting it.

For centuries the Ermita de la Veracruz saved one of the best sets of Romanesque frescoes in all of Spain.

However, the creation of Linares reservoir It raised fears for the great artistic treasure of the region, since the dammed waters could reach the place where the hermitage is located.

That is why the paintings were transferred to the Museo del Prado, and only the imprints remained on the walls in the apse.

Fortunately, a few years ago, at the other end of the building, some exact replicas of Romanesque frescoes, and now it is possible to realize that this 12th century hermitage, so humble in appearance on the outside, kept a real treasure.

How to visit the churches and the Hermitage of Veracruz

To visit both the churches of Saint Michael and Santa Maria del Castillo, such as the Ermita de la Veracruz, it must be taken into account that they are normally closed.

It is necessary to go to Maderuelo City Council or Tourist Office, both located in the Up Street, or better call beforehand at 648 453 818, to confirm opening hours and days.

Map: where it is and how to get to Maderuelo

Being located relatively close to the NI highway, which crosses the northeast of the Segovia province, the medieval town of Maderuelo It is very easy to access.

From Madrid you have to take exit 116, and if you arrive from Burgos, take exit 154; You can also enter the area by Ayllon if traveling from Barcelona or Zaragoza.