France

Mulhouse in 1 day: what to see in this beautiful Alsatian city (10 must-sees)

Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia
Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia

On the recent trip to French region of Alsace to see Christmas markets, I not only visited the city of Strasbourg, but I have also had the opportunity to meet Mulhouse, another city that has interesting attractions.

Located south of this border region with Germany, is a city that has about 125.000 inhabitants and an important industrial history dedicated to textile, chemical and railway production.

But you should know that Mulhouse It is a place with a long tradition as an independent republic linked to the neighboring Swiss cantons, which is very close to the German cities of Freiburg y Belfort, and just 30 kilometers from the Swiss city of Balisea.

 
 

Now when visiting this city, in addition to being able see a christmas market which has great charm, you can visit various places that reflect that industrial past and as an independent republic.

Curiosities of the history of Mulhouse

Mulhouse It was founded in the 7th century and is younger than other cities in Alsacia dating back to the 4th century.

At Middle Ages It was part of an alliance of 10 Alsatian cities, but its history is marked by the attack it suffered at the end of the XNUMXth century by the Holy German Empire.

Then the nobility of Mulhouse It joined the Germans, and the city did not receive help from the other cities of the alliance, so it then separated from it and in 1515 they decided to join the Swiss cantons.

That was the beginning of its stage as a city and independent republic.

Stock Exchange Square in Mulhouse in Alsace
Stock Exchange Square in Mulhouse in Alsace

In 1525 came the Lutheran Reformation, the Catholics were expelled, and Mulhouse it turned into a calvinist city.

It was already in 1746 when the first textile factory emerged, specifically for the production of printed fabrics, and from then on this industry had great development and Mulhouse It became a wealthy republic.

Precisely facilitating this development was what led to Mulhouse finally in 1798 it joined France, 10 years after the French Revolution.

 
 

When he integrated into France, Mulhouse had a great industrial development, for example with the installation of the train factory that is now the current one Alstom, manufacturer of high-speed trains, trams and cruise ships.

This industrial development was reflected in the distribution of the city since textile factories were concentrated in the northern part of it.

House from 1704 in the historic center of Mulhouse in Alsace
House from 1704 in the historic center of Mulhouse in Alsace

West of Mulhouse It is where the factories dedicated to the production of railway machinery were installed, and the southern part became a residential area for the wealthiest people.

Finally, during the Second World War the city of Mulhouse suffered significant bombings.

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Including an attack by the British who, as it has recently emerged, thought they were bombing the nearby German town of Freiburg.

This is the experience of visiting Mulhouse in one day, what to see

With the experience of our visit, today when you visit Mulhouse You will discover that it is a very cosmopolitan city with a large population from more than 40 countries.

Urban art on a shop facade in Mulhouse in Alsace
Urban art on a shop facade in Mulhouse in Alsace

This population has been concentrating in this French city due to the significant industrial activity it continues to maintain.

And a good example of this is the large automobile factory that Peugeot has about Mulhouse, which has attracted many people from numerous backgrounds who have settled in the city to work in it.

That is, you will not find a historic center with a large architectural complex, as can happen in other medieval cities, since the aforementioned bombings took their toll on the Mulhouse heritage.

But on a walk through the center you will be able to see some historic buildings and numerous houses with paintings on their facades, both old and current.

Below I am going to point out the most notable places that you should visit in your one day visit complete to the city of Mulhouse, during a trip through Alsace.

Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia
Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia

This is what a visit to the Mulhouse Christmas Market is like.

And I start talking about Mulhouse Christmas market, which logically you can only visit during the season of Advent in the month of December, but it is one of the most common reasons to carry out a trip to Alsace.

Concentrated in the main square of the city, the Reunion Square, has the difference with respect to the best known of Strasbourg y Colmar It is not at all saturated with tourists because all the visitors are local people.

But that does not prevent you from visit Mulhouse at Christmas time, you meet a Christmas market with incredible charm.

This is due to its location in a square with an imposing protestant temple and the spectacular building of the old town hall, to which you add the great lighting of all the buildings in the square and the large Ferris wheel that is located between the wooden stalls of the market.

In the latter you find the typical offering of artisans and local foods, all wrapped in the characteristic aroma of the cinnamon smell of mulled wine.

Protestant Church of Saint Stephen in Mulhouse in Alsace
Protestant Church of Saint Stephen in Mulhouse in Alsace

Protestant Church of St. Stephen

The quoted protestant temple is a neogothic building built in 1866. which was initially a Catholic church, but later became a headquarters of the Protestant religion.

Inside you can see some stained glass windows that belonged to a previous church, and which are the oldest preserved in Alsace.

La St. Stephen's Church Currently it is the reflection of the power of the Protestants in the city because, although they are already a minority, they continue to maintain a preeminent position as they are the owners of local industries.

 
 

In this regard it should be noted that until 1806 Mulhouse It was under a very harsh Protestant regime, since only Protestants could reside in the city; Jews and Catholics, after their day's work, could not remain in the city overnight.

Currently it has become a concert hall where a musical event is scheduled every Saturday.

Government room of the old town hall of Mulhouse
Government room of the old town hall of Mulhouse

Mulhouse Old Town Hall

But if there is a building that stands out in the Reunion Square de Mulhouse is the old Town Hall, true emblem of the city.

It is a beautiful building built in Renaissance style in 1551, with two staircases that open on both sides and with the facades completely painted in a striking pink tone.

These paintings show the shields of the Republic of Mulhouse, and in the upper area of ​​the façade the figures of the virtues are represented.

Inside it houses the Mulhouse Historical Museum, which you can visit for free every day of the year, except Tuesdays and holidays, with schedules from 13 p.m. to 18,30:10 p.m., and in July and August, from 12 a.m. to 13 p.m. and from 18,3 p.m. to XNUMX:XNUMX p.m.

Inside, be sure to visit the large room that was the historic headquarters of the gobierno of the aforementioned Republic of Mulhouse, whose walls and ceilings are decorated with paintings that reflect that era.

Buildings on the Place de la Reunion in Mulhouse in Alsace
Buildings on the Place de la Reunion in Mulhouse in Alsace

Maison Mieg, Renaissance house in Mulhouse

At Reunion Square There are other beautiful buildings that form an interesting architectural complex, among which the Maison Mieg Renaissance style.

This is a bourgeois house built in 1418 that you'll recognize by its tower and the paintings on the façade from 1799.

Mulhouse Automobile City Museum

During my recent trip someone told me that above all it is worth it visit Mulhouse, it is to know the Automobile City, a museum that has become the main focus of attracting tourists to the city.

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And the truth is that this visit has been left pending for another trip to Alsace, but I tell you that this automobile museum has its origin in the collection that the brothers Schlumpf, owners of a textile factory, began hoarding in 1961.

Opened to the public in 2006, it is one of the most important automobile museums in the world where you can see 243 classic cars, including a Bugatti royale.

St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse

St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse in Alsace
St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse in Alsace

The eastern area of ​​the historic center of Mulhouse in the Middle Ages It was mainly a residential area of ​​the Catholic population, in which churches and monasteries were concentrated, some run by the religious orders of chivalry.

That is the case of the Chapel of San Juan, now a small church that belonged in the 13th century to a monastery of the order of maltese.

After Protestant Reformation It was abandoned and then had various uses, until in the 19th century it was decided to rehabilitate it and today it is a venue for concerts or events.

Currently, the Chapel of San Juan It is one of the oldest buildings in Mulhouse and inside there are paintings from the 16th century.

How to see Urban Art in Mulhouse

Something that will catch your attention on your walk through Mulhouse is to see numerous building facades decorated with paintings from different periods, including the most current ones.

Urban art on a building in Mulhouse
Urban art on a building in Mulhouse

I will tell you that in the city they are cataloged up to 60 buildings with paintings on their facades, which follow the tradition of previous times, and whose best example is the aforementioned fully decorated façade of the Town Hall.

Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse

In one of the most beautiful buildings in Mulhouse you find one of the industrial museums that you can visit in this Alsatian city.

This is the Museum of Printed Fabrics whose origin dates back to 1833, when the city's textile industrialists decided to create a collection of the fabrics they were designing, which currently has more than 6 million pieces.

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The museum opened to the public in 1955, and during your visit you will be able to see a permanent exhibition of machinery and fabric designs from the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries, as well as Temporary exhibitions.

This museum reflects the great rise of fabric printing industry in Mulhouse, a city that in the 150th century had up to 70 factories, although after the crisis of the XNUMXs of the last century, there are almost no factories left.

Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse
Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse

In the museum you can see textile machinery from Manchester, and in fact Mulhouse It was known in the 19th century as the french manchester.

It should be noted that every year, at Christmas time, a special fabric design is made that becomes the protagonist in the city's Christmas decoration.

Thus, you find this design integrated into the decorative elements installed in the city, or in tablecloths and curtains used in restaurants and homes during these dates.

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Mulhouse Market

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you already know that when we travel we like to visit the markets because they are a good reflection of what a city is like.

El Mulhouse market It is a perfect place to take the pulse of this Alsatian city as it shows its very cosmopolitan character, since there you will find not only local products from the region, but also from other areas of the world, from the Magreb to China.

Mulhouse market in Alsace
Mulhouse market in Alsace

Open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, from 7 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon, with 350 positions installed in the building The Halle and in the exterior esplanades that surround it, due to its size it is the third market in France.

The Halle It is a building built in 1910, and inside there are fresh food stalls, while outside you find fruits and vegetables, as well as other products, including clothing.

Here you can sign up for a Complete tour of Alsace of 10 hours duration, or at a Tour of beautiful towns in Alsace, three and a half hours, which, starting from Colmar and with a guide in Spanish, will allow you to discover the best corners of this French region

It should be noted that on Saturdays there is a special area dedicated to small local producers.

This is the experience of visiting the Ecomuseum of Alsace, a museum of traditional life.

On your trip to Mulhouse You have the opportunity to visit a very interesting museum that is located just 15 kilometers from the city, in the small town of ungersheim.

Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France
Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France

Since many years ago in my first big trip to northern europe I discovered the charm of living museums, I am passionate about them.

This type of museum, in an environment of traditional rural architecture, shows you in a very didactic way how people lived a while ago in the towns of the region or country where it is installed.

For this, there are not only recovered houses, exponents of the country architecture of the region, but in them many people emulate the traditional lifestyle of the area, giving life to the museum.

 
 

I precisely remember that the first museum of these characteristics that I visited was not far from the Ecomuseum of Alsace; it was about Vogtsbauernhof Farm Museum, which is located just an hour and a half away Black Forest German.

In the case of Alsacia, it is the largest museum of its kind in France, and is the third most visited museum in the Alsatian region, with 200.000 visitors a year.

Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France
Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France

La history of the Ecomuseum of Alsace dates back to 1973, when young students of history and archeology founded the association Alsatian peasant houses with the aim of preserving the architectural heritage of the region that was deteriorating.

His first task was to restore some buildings in the small town of gommersdorf, south of Alsace.

It was in 1980 when it was decided to create a rural space where the recovered buildings could be moved, which was made available by the municipality of ungersheim, near Mulhouse.

With 20 buildings already renovated and relocated, the current museum opened to the public in 1984, and has continued to grow with the addition of new houses and other buildings.

That is the case of the Fuerte Tower Built in 1985 from the remains of the medieval wall of Mulhouse.

Ecomuseum of Alsace in Ungesheim near Mulhouse
Ecomuseum of Alsace in Ungesheim near Mulhouse

Thus, the Ecomuseum of Alsace emulates a town from the beginning of the 20th century where you can see up to 70 rural houses and buildings all originals, which have been moved from their places of origin to the current location of the museum.

Its houses with half-timbered facades with different colors, which give the town a great charm, in which more than 40.000 objects are preserved, including clothing, furniture, tools, machinery, etc. donated to the museum by the Alsatians.

Some of them have an area of farm, so you can see, for example, goats, sheep or ducks.

 
 

The different houses are dedicated to different trades with workshops enabled so that during your visit to the museum you can see firsthand how the workers work in them. artisans with wood, iron, metals or other materials.

You can also see a house where they are made traditional foods from the Alsace region, and the school does not lack a teacher.

Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungersheim near Mulhouse in France
Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungersheim near Mulhouse in France

In this way you will see the cabinetmaker and the blacksmith at work, or how traditional breads or sweets from the area are made.

The recommendation is visit the museum for a weekend, since it is the moment in which all the houses are filled with life with the presence of volunteers who, with the appropriate clothing, recreate the atmosphere of how people lived at the beginning of the last century.

Visiting hours of the Alsace Ecomuseum

El Ecomuseum of Alsace It is open to the public from the end of June to the end of October, with Time from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 18 p.m., with last access at 17 p.m., remaining closed every Monday.

It is also open during the Christmas season from the end of November to January 2, from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 18 p.m., with a program of special Christmas activities.

Alsace Ecomuseum ticket prices

Los Alsace Ecomuseum ticket prices Adults, 16,50 euros; children ages 4 to 17; and a reduced rate for seniors over 65 and students under 27, 14 euros.

Where to eat Alsatian food in Mulhouse

Alsatian tavern Le Cellier in Mulhouse
Alsatian tavern Le Cellier in Mulhouse

Finally, for your trip, if you want to try the most typical Alsatian food, I am going to make you two totally different proposals.

On one hand, the restaurant Le Cellier in the center of the city, a typical Alsatian tavern (winstub) of clear German style with informal food, where you can taste some of the region's specialties.

For instance, Bibalakase, a type of white cheese that is eaten with herbs, onion and garlic, accompanied by potatoes and cheese munster.

O Fleischnacka, a dish that is presented in the shape of a meat tail, but is actually a pasta that can be made with three different types of meat.

And on the other hand the restaurant Maison Kieny, in the nearby town of Riedisheim, and a sign that the high kitchen It also has a place in Mulhouse.

Maison Kieny Restaurant near Mulhouse
Maison Kieny Restaurant near Mulhouse

This is an establishment with a Michelin star whose gastronomic offer reinvents traditional Alsatian food.

To point out the original presentation of a typical Alsatian sausage board.

About the Author

José Luis Sarralde

Journalist and traveler throughout his life, José Luis Sarralde is the founder of Guías Viajar, where since 2008 he has been capturing his travel experiences around the world, specializing in cultural and scenic destinations in Spain and Europe.

Comments

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  • Belfort, contrary to what is stated in this blog, is not German. she is Alsatian and therefore French. I was lucky enough to live and grow up there for 10 years, and I still have family and friends there, which is a magnet for me to return often despite the distance of 1.600km.

  • Beautiful Bellfort. Don't miss the Lion of Belfort... Mulhouse... great!! I was there three days... the museum, the automobile... a sad story of a dream. Beautiful corners... it smells fresh... great food... very friendly people. I loved Alsace. I hope to return. I congratulate you for living in such a magnificent land!

  • I was once in Milhouse, it was in passing we were sitting in a bar in Reunion Square and the paintings on the houses and the grandeur of the square clearly caught my attention. Last year I was going to return again and since there was a workers' strike yellow vests, they canceled the trip, now Covid we don't know when it will let us travel, let's wait.
    I loved reading your information.
    Thank you
    regards