Best Holy Week processions in Murcia: Salzillos and Coloraos

A good way discover the attractions of a city that you don't know yet is to take the opportunity to visit it under the pretext of attending a festive celebration.

And so we did just before the pandemic with the Murcia city, where we travel to see its most outstanding Easter processions.

It is true that the eastern It is a celebration that has deep roots in many corners of Spain, highlighting the popularity that processions have reached in Andalusia or in Castilla y Leon.

Holy Week processions in Spain

But there are other corners of Spain where Easter processions They also have a very special attraction, and we have been able to verify that this is the case of the aforementioned Murcia city.

There were not many processions that I had seen until said trip, highlighting especially those that I have been able to experience on previous occasions in cities like Madrid, Toledo, Avila and some towns in Andalusia.

But the truth is that they have always provoked a special interest in me, beyond religious sentiment.

For example, see How to experience Holy Week in towns in Andalusia I was able to confirm it during the very interesting Paths of Passion Route that I have traveled during the time of Lent.

What is Holy Week like and how is it celebrated in Murcia?

At the outset I will tell you that during the eastern en Murcia, from the Good Friday until Easter Sunday, are celebrated until 16 processions different ones that run through the streets of the city center.

But there are three most notable processions in which, after living them, the singularities come together that I can confirm has the Murcian Holy Week.

These singularities are, on the one hand, a very special form of experience the Holy Week processions.

They are more one Popular party with roots in the tradition of the Murcian garden, than an exclusively religious celebration, during which the streets of the city are packed with the public.

Salzillo sculptures during Holy Week in Murcia

Furthermore, the processions, and specifically that of Jesús Nazareno which is celebrated from the early morning of Good Friday, become a great artistic exhibition.

In this procession, the carvings made by the best representative of the baroque sculpture and imagery from the 18th century, the Murcian Francisco Salzillo.

In fact, this procession, more popularly known as the the Salzillos, Part of Salzillo museum where the carvings are exposed to the public throughout the year.

Next I am going to talk to you about the most important processions held in Murcia during Holy Week, which I was able to experience with special emphasis on my trip.

What is the Procession of Los Coloraos like in Murcia?

La procession of the Coloraos, which is how it is popularly known, is celebrated during the afternoon of Holy Wednesday, and it is the most picturesque and popular with the participation of more than 3.000 Nazarenes.

In fact, its real name is procession of the Blood of Our Lord Jesus Christ, since it is organized by the brotherhood with that name, which was founded in the year 1411.

Part of the church of carmen which is located in the popular Carmen neighborhood, which is separated from the city center by the old Bridge that crosses the river Segura.

And why is it called lthe Coloraos? As you can imagine, from the color of their peculiar clothing.

What is the clothing of Los Coloraos like?

Well, in fact, the first thing that will undoubtedly catch your attention is Murcian Holy Week is bliss dress.

Although there are also nazarenes with the characteristic long tunics and Hoods, the participants in the procession of the Coloraos and in other Murcian processions they are distinguished by carrying special ones.

Instead of falling to the feet, the skirts of the tunics are gathered at the waist and held in place by the cincture, waist drawstring.

This enables a space that is filled with candies and other small gifts that the Nazarenes distribute among the children that are found during the processional route.

Therefore, do not think that all nazarenes They are “fat”, but in reality they carry a lot of candy…

Under the gathered tunic you can see the characteristics orchard petticoats white and starched, as well as orchard espartoness.

That is, some espadrilles and embroidered stockings on the feet.

Finally, in the head you can see the hoodz, a type of hat that they say is shaped like a bean, which allows you to see the face of the Nazarene, compared to the characteristic Hoods conical that cover the face.

In the case of the procession of Los ColoraosThis garb reminiscent of the 18th century is the one they wear shelves, that is, the Nazarenes who endure the steps.

But in the procession you will also be able to see the penitents dressed in the typical long tunics and Hoods of Holy WeekYes, of a striking red color.

What is the route of the Los Coloraos procession in Murcia

After crossing the old Bridge, the procession heads towards the area of ​​the Murcia Cathedral and then get lost in the narrow streets of the city center.

There it crosses the Gran Vía and also goes through the popular flower square, and then return to the church of carmen.

The aforementioned participation of more than 3.000 nazarenes and the attendance of thousands of people who fill all sections of the route, makes the procession become a true popular festival.

You will be able to see curious scenes, such as nazarenes with their striking red clothing, walking barefoot and carrying a wooden cross, while they distribute candy to children...and adults.

The large number of steps in the procession, about ten, means that the time required to see it completely is almost three hours.

What is the Procession of Silence like in Murcia?

The great contrast in Murcian processions you find it in the Silence, which is celebrated during the night of Holy Thursday, and it is the one with the greatest fervor among those celebrated during Holy Week in Murcia.

Organized by the Brotherhood of the Santísimo Cristo del Refugio, which is better known as Procession of Silence It is the maximum expression of sobriety and meditation among those celebrated in Murcia.

Part of the very central church of San Lorenzo, Where nazarenes They arrive in silence from their homes.

More traditional dresses black and purple robes, and covered with Hoods, inside the church silence reigns while the processional order is organized.

It has a single processional step, which is preceded by the two very long lines of penitents that accompany him.

When it's time to leave, a choir sings in the church, accompanying the distribution of the candles that the people will carry. penitents, and which will be the only source of lighting throughout the entire route.

Well, indeed, once the Procession of Silence, in all the streets of the city where it runs the lights are completely turned off, so that the long line of penitents with their candles is more striking.

The silence that reigns during the procession is broken from time to time by different choral groups distributed along the route.

Together with the auroros, characteristic songs of the brotherhoods of the Murcian orchard, other musical expressions are heard, from the miserers…until prickly pear songs.

What is the Salzillos Procession like in Murcia?

As happens in the rest of Spain, in Murcia He too Good Friday is summit day of the Holy Week processions.

And although several are celebrated, without a doubt the one with the greatest splendor is the impressive Salzillos procession, which is how it is popularly known.

This procession begins at dawn on Friday to tour the city center throughout the morning.

Part of the church of jesus, which is part of the Salzillo museum, and the corner where during the rest of the year the famous Salzillo carvings.

With an impressive dome, the nine processional steps emerge from the church one by one, all, except one, with carvings by the artist Salzillo.

In this procession the nazarenes They wear clothing similar to that of The Coloraos, only with blue color.

All of Murcia takes to the streets of the center, which are occupied by the procession in a very long route that runs through the most significant corners of the city.

If you have rented one of the chairs that are available along the route and want to see the complete step of the Salzillos procession, you will have to stay for about two and a half hours, until the group of legionnaires passes by and closes it.