Galicia

10 essentials: what to see and do around Ferrol

Kayak through a Ferrolterra estuary in Galicia @Photo: Machbel
Kayak through a Ferrolterra estuary in Galicia @Photo: Machbel

Ferrol It is one of the most historically important cities in northern Spain thanks to its naval tradition with shipyards that over time formed a territory with great economic power within an unbeatable natural environment.

Some time ago we traveled to city ​​of Ferrol, where we visited their historic Arsenal and shipyards, we walked through the historic center in a modernism route, and we discovered the very interesting Route of the Meninas de Canido.

On this occasion we set out to discover the attractions around Ferrol to offer you 10 plans that can be done as a family, in which we also include activities to enjoy this land of cliffs, cliffs, estuaries and incredible landscapes.

El Galician tourism It is evidently very marked by its famous routes such as the the Camino de Santiago, Andrade route or the Lighthouse Route, but both its estuaries and its forests hold many places full of magic that we intended to visit, as well as its great beaches.

What to see and do for tourism in the surroundings of Ferrol

Ferrolterra It is a region of the province of A Coruña which brings together several municipalities, and where broadly speaking there are two large population groups, one next to Ferrol, and the other further north in the area around cedeira.

Due to its geography, this region of the Rias Altas It has towns that were very important for centuries because of how difficult it was to besiege them, thanks to the natural strength created by the estuaries, the bravery of the sea and the cliffs.

pontedeume

pontedeume It was an important strategic area protected by the Ares estuary, which was home for many years to one of the most influential families in the history of the region, the Andrade family.

Pontedeume near Ferrol in Galicia
Pontedeume near Ferrol in Galicia

This town located between Fragas do Eume natural park and the mouth of the river with the same name, was founded in 1270 by Alfonso X and takes its name from the medieval Gothic-style bridge that dominates the city.

This bridge was about 850 meters long with 68 small Gothic arches, although it has undergone many renovations and reconstructions until the last one carried out in the XNUMXth century, with which it acquired the appearance it has today.

It was a bridge so large and so important that it had a hospital for pilgrims in the middle between arches 20 and 22, two defensive towers, one on each side, and two statues of a bear and a wild boar, symbolic animals for the pilgrims. Andrade.

This family that brought lights and shadows to the territory, had several royal concessions and came to have enormous power.

Torreon dos Andrade

El Torreon dos Andrade, which is currently the headquarters of the tourist office, had access to the old bridge Pontedueme and it was the old keep or defensive tower of the old Andrade palace, a place where the family was protected if they needed it.

Landscape of the Esmelle Valley in Ferrolterra in Galicia
Landscape of the Esmelle Valley in Ferrolterra in Galicia

The old palace Andrade Palace It was from the 30th century and was expanded in the XNUMXth century, and after being left in ruins, it was finally lost in the XNUMXs.

The later palace is located at the top of the hill facing east.

Kayak excursion through an estuary

There are cities that are explored on foot and by feeling their streets, but if we talk about enjoying a natural environment, the best things are the activities, and in the case of Galicia The best way to know its estuaries and rivers is without a doubt in one kayak excursion.

A river whose surface opens up until it flows into the sea is known as an estuary, but here many of the estuaries are shaped like an arrowhead, since they close at the end in such a way that, in certain areas, they resemble a lagoon.

The good thing about these estuaries, so large and closed at the exit to the sea, is that the waters inside them are very calm, and this for the nautical activities of this style are ideal, ideal to go as a family with children.

Kayaking through a Ferrolterra estuary in Galicia
Kayaking through a Ferrolterra estuary in Galicia

In fact, it is a deep-rooted and important activity in these lands because in its competition schools There are some of the best Olympic rowers in Spain.

There are many places where you can rent this type of boat to go in a group with an instructor who explains the entire environment to you, making the activity much more enjoyable.

In this area there are two estuaries that come together into one, so there are two clear areas to paddle, the Ares estuary that comes from Eume River and Betanzos estuary with its Mandean River; We have sailed both of them and they are really great.

Here you have information to sign up for the activity of kayak through an estuary with the company with which we do it, in case you are interested.

cedeira

cedeira It is a town nestled in a small estuary that bears the same name, next to the Sierra de la Capelada where the largest cliffs in the world are located Cantabrian coast and one of the highest in Europe.

Cedeira Fortress near Ferrol in Galicia
Cedeira Fortress near Ferrol in Galicia

In fact, you can find a black color in the stones of the cliffs that are not of volcanic origin, but are some of the oldest rocks in the world, since the tectonic plates were cut here once the extinct was separated. pangea continent, millions of years ago.

ancient land of medieval cetaries, a way they had to take advantage of the tides by creating ponds to capture seafood, cedeira Years ago it was an area for capturing lobsters, an activity that disappeared in the 80s to be replaced by the collection of barnacles.

In this regard cedeira It is reputed to have the best seafood in this entire part of the Galician territory.

La Cedeira estuary In reality they are two in one, since two rivers flow into it. Condoñimas and das Mestas. separated by a rocky outcrop with its own lighthouse called Punta Robaleira.

Precisely the Condominas River which leads to the Magdalena beach, separates the newest area from the Sand District from the town of cedeira, which is where the old town would be found with the typical colonial-style facades and windows.

But in this town, in addition to walking around the entire area of ​​​​the river that crosses the city, there are several very interesting points within a very short distance in the port area.

Punta Sarridal in Cedeira

Punta Sarridal route in Cedeira near Ferrol
Punta Sarridal route in Cedeira near Ferrol

Punta Sarridal It is one of the two points that has the entrance to the Cedeira estuary, and is located at the foot of the Sierra de la Capelada which is a natural set of forest between two estuaries, La de ortigueira and of cedeira and where sea, river and cliffs converge.

For those of you who like hiking, at the other end of the estuary in Chirlateira Point, there is also a very interesting route of about 14 kilometers that is part of what is known as Lighthouse Route.

It is a very rich environment in which in a small physical space you can see several points of interest, forts, cetarias and castle, since this area has been populated for thousands of years, and it is known from remains found that in this place already there must have been a Celtic settlement.

Here they came celtic tribes who came from eastern Europe looking for the sunset towards the west and the sea, tribes who, in their beliefs, considered that the souls of the people who abandoned us went to the island of the afterlife seeking reincarnation.

Some remains of what are thought to be ancient Celtic baths have recently been found, since there is no evidence that the Romans had any interest in this area, and it is considered that there must have been a fort in this area.

From the beacon that marks Punta Sarridal There is a great view of the town of cedeira and its estuary, and as a curiosity you can see the ropes on which the barnacles grow that will later be collected.

Medieval Cetaria and Cedeira Castle

Caaveiro Monastery near Ferrol in Galicia
Caaveiro Monastery near Ferrol in Galicia

In the lower part there is also an old cetaria which is an old seafood nursery from medieval times, which gives its name to the town and is currently trying to rebuild it to value these historical remains of the social customs of the time.

The last point of interest is the castle of the conception from the 18th century, which is an old defensive fortress with a military battery of four cannons, which is divided into two parts, the combat zone and the rooms.

Fragas to Euma

Caaveiro Monastery near Ferrol in Galicia
Caaveiro Monastery near Ferrol in Galicia

El Fragas do Eume natural park It is a unique and spectacular forest of Atlantic forest, and a large reserve with great biodiversity where you can mainly find a multitude of protected birds.

This forest is clearly marked by the influence of Eume River that runs through the valley through which the native flora develops marked by the proximity of the sea and the estuary.

It is a very special corner full of magic, especially on foggy days, when the mysterious stories of meigas gain strength.

Whether there are meigas or not, in any case it is a silent place full of nature that is very conducive to hiking and meditation.

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Hence it is not surprising that two small monasteries are located in that place, but full of charm such as that of Caaveiro and of Saint Mary of Monfero.

Caaveiro Monastery

The small but majestic Caaveiro monastery It is located on top of a cliff, in the valley of the Fraguas do Eume natural park.

It is thought to have been founded by the Benedictine monks during the 10th century and which served as a refuge for several centuries.

It is an incredible place that can be reached by car. but the last stretch must be done walking through vegetation, and as you get closer, you begin to visualize this monastery in the middle of nature, without a doubt a magical enclave.

Only a few buildings and a mill remain, but it is very worth visiting, especially for the surroundings, which is what really gives it value and gives it the mysticism typical of these lands.

Valdovino Surf Museum

It is no coincidence that many of the best surfers of the world visit frequently Galicia, since it is the coastal area with the highest frequency of waves Europe.

For lovers of this sport, without a doubt this is a special place, since here is the first museum of Surf from Spain and one of the few in the world, and it is already rare, because it is believed that this sport has its origins around 1000 BC, in Peru.

El Oceano Surf Club It is full of historical tables and utensils related to the world of surf, where you can review the origin and evolution of the history of this sport in the world, from the Polynesia, to Hawai, until you reach Galicia.

The town hall of Valdovino It has 25 kilometers of coastline and 17 beaches, and it is no coincidence that this museum was created in this municipality, which is where the pantin beach and its mythical proof Classic pantyhose, which is celebrated at the end of summer.

It is the longest test in Europe of the world surf circuit, disputed for 32 years consecutively and has served to show that the Valdovino coast It is a reference in the world of this sport.

By the way, the Admission to the Surf Museum is free and is located in the Valdoviño House of Culture, which is also an interesting building from an architectural point of view.

Surfing on Patín beach and O Paraño viewpoint

Surfing on Pantín beach in Valdoviños near Ferrol @Photo: Machbel
Surfing on Pantín beach in Valdoviños near Ferrol @Photo: Machbel

And after visiting the museum of the history of surf, we couldn't resist practicing it on its mythical beach.

It is very rare to visit Galicia and not see waves, even on the calmest days, since this area is where the tides that cross the sea arrive. Atlantic until it hits the Galician coast, that's why there is another area called Death Coast Known for the bravery of its waters.

This means that any time of the year is conducive to enjoying this maritime sport, even for the most novices.

As there are large waves that break not on the coast itself, but further inland, the foam always arrives with force in which beginners can do their initial practices.

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For the more advanced, in addition to this mythical beach, there are many other beaches to to surf every day with perfect waves in a stunning natural environment.

There are several schools where you can both teach classes and rent the material to jump into the sea, and here we leave you information about where to rent surfboards or sign up for classes.

We also indicate that the best point to see the beach is the O Paraños viewpoint at the top of the hill, with incredible views of the Valdovino beaches and its lagoon.

MTB in the Esmelle Valley

MTB on Santa Comba beach near Ferrol
MTB on Santa Comba beach near Ferrol

Another environment that we got to know through an activity is the Esmelle Valley, since it is an area full of paths and routes to travel in Mountain bike.

From routes through the river and forests, to the sea and cliffs, this area is full of beautiful beaches and lighthouses like the Santa Comba beach with its hermitage by the sea.

The hobby of cycling is growing here, and there are already several clubs that organize mountain bike outings, whether they are tourist routes to do with family or friends.

There are routes with various levels of difficulty, so if you regularly practice this sport you can opt for a more demanding route while saving a higher altitude.

Horse riding in Ortigueira

Horseback riding through Ortigueira near Ferrol
Horseback riding through Ortigueira near Ferrol

To know the natural environment that surrounds ortigueira, which is the northernmost area of ​​the region of Ferrolterra, we chose a less common way to do an excursion, but we thought it was great.

Una horse trail It is a sensational way to go along paths that cannot be accessed any other way, and we must admit that it was our first excursion of this type and the experience could not have been better.

Due to its mountainous terrain, for many years the main means of transportation in this area was the horse and it seemed to us the best way to integrate into the environment.

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After some brief instructions on how to lead the horse, we entered the forest.

There are many different routes depending on the levels and above all it is ideal for families with children from 6 years old and up.

Here you have information to sign up for the horse riding routes in Ortigueira.

San Andrés de Teixido Sanctuary

In the Sierra de La Capelada Among one of the highest cliffs in Europe, there is the second sanctuary after that of Santiago de Compostela which is considered the Mecca of the Galicians.

This area full of legends related to the routes that run through it, houses a Gothic-baroque church from the 16th to 17th century and is the end of the Teixido road.

This is the San Andrés de Teixido Sanctuary, a small but beautiful monastery, which came to have great power due to its special location.

Tips for visiting Ferrolterra

Galicia, in general, is a very green region, and to stay that way, rainwater is necessary.

Punta Sarridal near Ferrol
Punta Sarridal near Ferrol

Through this area come the fronts of the Atlantic that enter the Iberian Peninsula, and that is why it is one of the areas of the country where it rains the most, and although it is true that with climate change it can be seen that it rains less and less, it is quite likely that if you take a trip one week, one day it will rain.

What clothes to bring to Ferrolterra

It is not a torrential rain, and in fact you will realize that everyone is very used to this light rain, which is why there is one piece of clothing that cannot be missing from your luggage, the raincoat.

If you are going to do mountain routes, whether on foot, by bike or on horseback, it is important to wear mountain boots, because with the rain there can be mud.

Just like I told you that it rains, when it comes out it's sunny, it burns a lot, and since there is usually a sea breeze, you don't realize that you are burning, which is why it is essential that you wear sunscreen.

Whether you go to Galicia in winter or summer, you should always bring a swimsuit because the environment makes it possible to wear it, in rivers, estuaries, or with some activity at sea.

MTB on Santa Comba beach near Ferrol
MTB on Santa Comba beach near Ferrol

Of course, the water is not usually hot, so in the activities you do you usually use neoprene or lycra, which the organizers provide.

What and where to eat in Ferrolterra

Ferrolterra It is a land of seafood and there are some specialties that you cannot miss.

As we have commented, the barnacles They are the flagship of the region, but there is much more, such as cockles, crab, or the perfect accompaniment for everything, the famous Galician bread.

Of course, you can't leave Galicia without trying the octopus, which although there are fewer and fewer, is of superior quality.

If you are in the area, there are several restaurants that we liked, specifically, the Pulperia os Cen Pasos de Puentedeume, where do you find authentic Galician food and seasonal.

Celtic remains in Cedeira near Ferrol
Celtic remains in Cedeira near Ferrol

Another recommended place is The Badulaque located in the Cedeira port, where you can taste a magnificent Crab or Bonito cake.

Where to sleep in the surroundings of Ferrol

Although there is always the option of a classic hotel in a city, of course the best and most authentic accommodations are in Rural houses.

Much of the charm of this region is its stone houses with wooden beams and fires in the fireplaces, so we definitely recommend looking for hotels or rural houses.

They are ideal to feel at home in these cozy spaces.

The good thing about them is that in everything Galicia The people are very welcoming and this is noticeable in this type of accommodation where you can also dine there with real homemade food, from the region, of course, with prior notice as they are not restaurants.

In our case we stayed in two beautiful rural accommodations that we recommend without hesitation, the Graña de Acea Rural House in the magical environment of The Fragas do Eume and House A Past very close to cedeira.

About the Author

Carlos Sarralde

A great traveler from a very young age, Carlos is one of the founders of Guías Viajer, where he tells us about his experiences in the most varied countries in the world, from the United States and Sri Lanka, to Greenland and French Polynesia.

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