Castilla La Mancha Spain

The best things to see on the Pueblos Negros Route (Guadalajara)

Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara
Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara
The best things to see on a getaway along the Route of the Black Towns in Guadalajara, with landscapes of rural black architecture: photos, tips, how to get there

I had been wanting to get away to the city for a long time. Route of the Black Towns of Guadalajara, near Madrid.

As an aperitif, not long ago I also had the opportunity to visit black towns in the Segovia provinceas Veryo o The Negredo in the Sierra de Ayllon, and for many years now Patones de Arriba in the province of Madrid.

But the truth is that the black towns of Guadalajara They have a special fame, and are widely visited by Madrid residents, especially in autumn or taking advantage of long weekends and weekends.

Why are they called black towns?

This is a characteristic type of country architecture in which the use of the blackboard as a construction material, not only in houses, but also in fences, bridges, fountains or other elements of the urban landscape.

The result is a general tone of black that surrounds these towns, although there are also other shades typical of slate, such as ocher.

It is a type of architecture that you also find in other places in Spain, such as in the Pyrenees, with one of whose best examples is the Valle de Aran in the province of lerida, or also in the Hurdes en Estremadura.

Finally, taking advantage of a pleasant autumn day, I decided to make this visit.

In this way I was sure of being able to enjoy the combination of the beautiful autumn landscapes with the peculiar architectural style of these towns on the most rural side of the province of Guadalajara.

As you can see in the photos that accompany this report, I was not wrong.

Where are the black towns of Guadalajara

The so-called black towns of Guadalajara They are grouped near the mountains that separate said province from that of Segovia, and also close to the delimitation with the province of Madrid, at the foot of the Ocejón Peak.

If you come from the north, the way to get there is from Riaza, going up the Quesera port, where you can see the La Pedrosa beech forest, also known as the Riaza Beech Forest.

Descending from the port along the southern slope you will reach Majaelrayo and to the rest of the towns.

Majaelrayo, black town of Guadalajara
Majaelrayo, black town of Guadalajara

From Madrid, the most common route will be the one that takes you to the city of Guadalajara, and from there, towards the northeast, you will go up Humans to reach Head, a place that is considered the first milestone of this route.

Another way is along the A1, and turning off in Algete, you will reach Tamajón, route I opted for.

The best things to see on the Black Towns Route of Guadalajara

Below I am going to detail the most outstanding corners that you can see in this area. route through the black towns of Guadalajara, starting from the aforementioned town of Tamajón.

Bonaval Monastery in Guadalajara

Shortly before reaching Tamajón you find an interesting corner, the remains of the Bonaval monastery.

Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara
Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara

You can see this scenic corner a couple of kilometers from the town of Retains, and it is the abandoned remains of what was once a Cistercian monastery founded in 1164.

Now only the remains of the church in serious deterioration process.

A sign at the beginning of the path that runs along the banks of a river warns you of this situation, and that after walking a kilometer and a half allows you to reach said remains.

Regardless of the route you have chosen, when you arrive at Tamajón The road will then lead you down the west slope of the Ocejón Peak through towns such as Campillejo, Campillo de Ranas, El Espinar and Majaelrayo.

You also have the option of following the route that along the eastern slope of the aforementioned mountain takes you through other towns such as Almiruete, to get to Valverde de los Arrojos.

Church of the Assumption in Tamajón in Guadalajara
Church of the Assumption in Tamajón in Guadalajara

Church of the Assumption in Tamajón in Guadalajara

Tamajón actually It is not a black town, but it is worth stopping to see the Church of the Assumption.

It is a large building whose origin dates back to the 13th century, of which only the beautiful porticoed atrium with half-pointed arches, with a corbel decorated with covers and human figures.

In the 16th century, an adaptation to a Renaissance style was carried out.

Enchanted City of Tamajón

As you follow the route, very close you will find the curious place known as the Enchanted City of Tamajón,

Enchanted City of Tamajón in Guadalajara
Enchanted City of Tamajón in Guadalajara

There are various formations that are the result of water erosion on the rocks, which will remind you of the famous place of Enchanted City of Cuenca.

A little further on you will see the Hermitage of Our Lady of the Enebrales, from the beginning of the 16th century.

From there, and as you go up towards the mountains, is when you will find the real black towns.

In them, although there are still numerous somewhat deteriorated houses, you may be surprised to see how well maintained most of them are.

Campillejo, black town in Guadalajara

In reality, these are buildings built later by people who have settled in these towns in recent decades, among which you will also be able to see several Rural houses.

Black architecture in Campillejo in Guadalajara
Black architecture in Campillejo in Guadalajara

The result is that, contrary to what surely happened a while ago, now you will not walk through semi-abandoned towns, but rather well-kept ones, and where you will find very pleasant and beautiful corners.

Here you have information and you can sign up for the best excursions and activities in the province of Guadalajara

In this regard, it is worth highlighting the small hermitage completely rebuilt in slate that you can see in the village of Campillejo.

Campillo de Ranas, black town in Guadalajara

Or the beautiful architectural complex that makes up the main square of Camp of Frogs where his parish church is located.

Although I took the getaway on a sunny Sunday in the autumn season, I was somewhat surprised to find fewer tourists than I feared, which allowed me to walk almost alone through the alleys of these small towns.

It was also very appreciated at meal time, as there are not many places to do it, and on more touristy dates, such as a long weekend, there are usually Overbooking in the restaurants.

The option chosen was Tejera Negra restaurant en Camp of Frogs, where they offer you a menu with dishes to choose from, with a good quality-price ratio and very pleasant service.

Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara
Campillo de Ranas, black town of Guadalajara

Of course, for a future getaway I have left pending the route that leads to Valverde of the Streams, one of the most prominent towns in the black architecture of Guadalajara.

Map: how to get to the black towns of Guadalajara

La Route of the Black Towns of Guadalajara It is delimited by various towns such as Campillejo or Campillo de Ranas, which are located one hour and 45 minutes north of Madrid.

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Photos black towns of Guadalajara

Here you have more photos of the black architecture of Guadalajara in the autumn season.

About the Author

José Luis Sarralde

Journalist and traveler throughout his life, José Luis Sarralde is the founder of Guías Viajar, where since 2008 he has been capturing his travel experiences around the world, specializing in cultural and scenic destinations in Spain and Europe.

Comments

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  • I loved this article, thank you very much for sharing. I'm just going to spend the December long weekend at a rural house near the black towns of Guadalajara. I have to say that having planned the trip I already knew most of these destinations but there are others that I didn't, so I'm writing them down so I can visit them. I think it is a beautiful area to disconnect from the city and connect with nature and a calmer life. All the best.

  • Thank you very much for sharing valuable information about our Region, we love this land and we love seeing articles like this. We are waiting for you in Campillo de Ranas for when you want to repeat your visit. Greetings!

  • Incredible places! A good option when you want to breathe tranquility not many km from the city. We loved Valverde de los Arroyos, it is beautiful. You can't miss it on your next visit.

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