Castilla y Leon

What to see on the Route through Sierra de Ayllón (Segovia), from Riaza to black towns

Plaza Mayor de Ayllón in Segovia
Plaza Mayor de Ayllón in Segovia

La Sierra de Ayllon It is one of the most beautiful and, however, least known corners of the Segovia province.

It is, therefore, a perfect destination for a weekend tourism trip.

Riaza y Ayllon They are the two most important towns in this area.

Both have a lot of charm, and since they are on the N-110 highway, they are very easy to reach.

They are separated by just 18 kilometers, so there is no reason not to visit them if we are in the area.

But as is almost always the case, there is much more to see and know, beyond the obvious.

Although You can get from Riaza to Ayllón in a few minutes, it is much more interesting to detour through the valleys that descend from the mountain and where towns with some unexpected treasures are hidden immersed in a rugged landscape.

This route on secondary roads It allows you to discover an area that lived very isolated for centuries, which has allowed it to preserve a unique character.

Riaza in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Riaza in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

Furthermore, due to the geological characteristics of the area and, therefore, the local materials that have historically been used to build the towns, they have very accentuated chromatic dominants that vary every few kilometers.

From Riaza to Ayllón, route through the yellow, red and black towns of Segovia

That's why this tour of secondary roads between Riaza and Ayllón It is known as the Route of the yellow, red and black towns.

The best things to see in Riaza

Riaza It is the gateway to this mountain and mineral universe of the Segovia province.

En Riaza all roads lead to Plaza Mayor, almost perfectly circular and very attractive with its arcades of genuine Castilian character and its manor houses.

Riaza in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Riaza in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

The structure of the plaza itself has something of bullfighting ring, and this is how it is used during the holidays.

The building of the Town hall, from the 18th century, breaks the circular layout of the square. At the top stands out the clock tower crowned by an iron spire.

On one side of the Town Hall building you immediately reach the Church of Our Lady of the Mantle, as robust as it is airy, which keeps a Museum of Sacred Art.

You have to walk around admiring the strong ancestral mansions, emblazoned and of mountain bearing.

And the opportunity should also be taken to look for a place to eat, because on the route it is likely that we will not find anywhere if we do not go in summer or on a weekend.

Alquíté, yellow town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Alquíté, yellow town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

Yellow villages in Sierra de Ayllón

En Riaza You have to take the SG-V-1111 road to immediately reach I rented, and we begin to understand the color route.

Alquíté, yellow town in Sierra de Ayllón

Here the buildings have a yellowish tone Because in this area there are many quartzites.

At first glance we can think that it could include I rented between the red towns, but when we get to them, we will see that the latter have an even more marked color.

En I rented  highlights the St. Peter's Church, located on a small hill, slightly separated from the farmhouse.

Alquíté, yellow town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Alquíté, yellow town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

Is the origin Romanesque and very simple, with only a few details on the cover.

It impresses with its humility and sobriety, and gives us an idea of ​​what we are going to find along the route.

Here we see a very common characteristic in the traditional architecture of the Segovian towns, and the fact is that the roof tiles are placed the opposite of what is usual, with the concave part facing up.

A detour takes us to Martín Muñoz de Ayllón, another tiny hamlet where the most prominent building is also the church of San Martín, equally romanesque and isolated.

You have to look closely, but above the entrance there is a somewhat crude carving of a naked female figure.

Villacorta, red town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Villacorta, red town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

Red villages in Sierra de Ayllón

Upon arriving at Villacorta We begin to understand why they are called red towns.

Villacorta, red town in Sierra de Ayllón

Here geology rules again and the soil abounds in clays y ferruginous materials, which provides this characteristic russet to the buildings.

Villacorta It is a town with very few inhabitants that, in reality, only comes to life in summer, but the houses are well renovated, taking advantage of the reddish materials.

The complex is quite attractive and from the road this hamlet around the church tower stands out with its color.

Burrow, red town in Sierra de Ayllón

Continuing along the road you reach Burrow, perhaps the most spectacular red town.

Madriguera, red town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Madriguera, red town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

Here what is convenient is to walk calmly paying attention to the details of the popular architecture.

We will notice that balconies abound in the houses, which is not very common in the mountain towns of Segovia.

Black towns in Sierra de Ayllón

You don't have to get used to it because the image of these towns immediately changes and we arrive at a series of dark, almost black towns, slate architecture.

Becerril, black town in Sierra de Ayllón

It's worth the detour Becerril from Villacorta to reach this small village for the landscape, the solitude and the church of Our Lady of the Assumption.

Once again you have to pay attention to the small details, like that eave that surrounds the apse and rests on corbels with very rough but charming figures.

Becerril, black town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
Becerril, black town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

If it is open, you should take the opportunity to see the capitals of the triumphal arch of the central nave, with a decoration of birds and pine cones.

Other worthwhile detours are those that, from Madriguera, lead to Serracin y the very, others black towns where there were slate and coal mines and now there is silence.

El Negredo, black town in Sierra de Ayllón

En The Negredo We find another feature that appears from time to time by the Segovian towns, and the town is grouped around the hermitage while the main church is unpopulated.

The church is about 500 meters away, among oaks, holm oaks and cistus.

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El Negredo, black town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia
El Negredo, black town in Sierra de Ayllón in Segovia

The portico is a later, Renaissance addition to the Romanesque construction and is surprising for its capitals, although some are very damaged.

Route along the Aguisejo River in Sierra de Ayllón

El Aguisejo River He is the guide for the last part of the route.

If we take the path upstream, we must reach the end of the valley, Peak Grade, a town that seems perched on nature itself.

The church stands out there, with one of the most beautiful Romanesque porches in the region, where the well-preserved capitals are visible, although some arches are blinded.

Aguisejo Valley in Segovia
Aguisejo Valley in Segovia

Some of the most beautiful and solitary places in the area are hidden in the surroundings, between vertical walls of limestone rock where it seems that there is only silence.

Following the Aguisejo River, on the way to Ayllón you pass through Santibanez de Ayllón, Estebanvela y Franks, quiet towns where there is almost always an austere church with Romanesque traces that form a good ensemble with the tall riverside trees that flank the riverbed.

The best things to see in Ayllón

And you get to Ayllon, One towns with the most history in the province of Segovia, which is saying a lot.

To visit this beautiful town, if you prefer, you can sign up for this Private tour of Ayllón Two hours long, with a specialized guide, ideal for groups of family or friends

Archaeologists have found remains of a Neolithic town and it is known that Arevaci, Visigoths and Arabs settled here before it achieved glory as a town belonging to the Manor of Don Álvaro de Luna, one of the most powerful Castilian nobles of the 15th century.

It's exciting to go through the arc, one of the three gates of the wall, and enter this town full of charm.

Ayllón in Segovia
Ayllón in Segovia

The facade appears first florida gothic of the Contreras Palace, from the end of the 15th century, before entering the Plaza Mayor, with arcade houses over which the belfry of the church of san miguel.

Then, at random during the walk, you walk between houses and palaces with emblazoned facades that speak of splendid times, like the Town Halls, la Eagle House or Palace of Bishop Velosillo, which now houses the surprising Museum of Contemporary Art of Ayllón.

There are also several churches, and convent of San Francisco, now in ruins, it is said that it was founded by the same San Francisco de Asis.

Here ends the route through the Ayllón mountain range, although very close there is still the possibility of stopping at Santa María de Riaza to admire your romanesque church.

It is located on a hill that falls on the plain of the plateau. The mountain landscape has already been left behind.

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About the Author

Angel Martínez Bermejo

With the experience of being one of the Spanish travel journalists who have traveled the most around the world, Ángel tells us about his trips in Guías Viajar, in addition to collaborating in other prestigious news media such as the magazines Hola Viajes, Viajar or the radio program Gente Viajera

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