Santa María de Nogueira (Lugo), how to visit the Sistine Chapel of Ribeira Sacra

One of the biggest surprises of our last trip through the Ribeira Sacra, was discovering the interior of the church of Santa María de Nogueira de Miño.

From the outside it looks like just another church in the towns of Galicia, with that mix of elements ranging from Romanesque to Baroque, the result of different extensions and restorations carried out over time.

But the interior is unique and preserves one of the best collections of mural painting in all of Galicia, so it is now known as the Sistine Chapel of the Ribeira Sacra.

The curious thing is that these images had remained hidden for a long time under a layer of lime.

For a few years it was suspected that there could be some paintings, but recently, when carrying out some maintenance work, it was discovered that the church kept a treasure of incalculable value.

A careful restoration over the last decade now allows us to marvel at this set of paintings.

Where is Santa María de Nogueira de Miño in Lugo

La church of Santa María de Nogueira de Miño It is located in the town of To Eirexe, in the parish of Nogueira de Miño, In the Lugo province.

It is a very special place since it is on the promontory of the Cape of the World, where he My no traces a very pronounced curve.

There is a gazebo well known on the opposite bank of the river.

What to see when visiting Santa María de Nogueira in Ribeira Sacra

The church is Romanesque origin, from the 12th century, although it is thought that it may have even earlier parts.

The entire complex has been greatly modified, but there are many Romanesque elements easily visible such as the central rose window, the corbels and the south door.

The fact that the apse is straight proves that it is one of the oldest churches built by the Cistercians, prior to the adoption of the semicircular shape that would eventually become the usual one.

The apse window is typically Romanesque.

Inside are also distinguished romanesque elements in the capitals of the columns of the presbytery, the part that is in front of the altar.

There are also parts that are later, of Renaissance and Baroque era.

The architectural complex, plus a series of altarpieces and other elements, especially those preserved in the sacristy, have always made Saint Mary of Nogueira An interesting church to visit.

What are the paintings of Santa María de Nogueira like?

But appearance and restoration of paintings has made it one of the most important visits that can be made in a sightseeing trip through the Ribeira Sacra, in this case in the Lugo province.

Upon entering you can see that it is a church with a single nave, although over time a side chapel was added to the north side, the dawn chapel.

It is said that this chapel was used by peasants who could come to pray without mixing with the upper-class faithful who occupied the central part.

The work to open the door of this chapel damaged part of the paintings on that wall.

It must be taken into account that this region belonged for centuries to the Lemos County and that this church must have been used by the count's family and those close to him.

These counts were very influential figures in Spanish politics in the 16th century and wanted to create an important artistic work.

Scenes from paintings by Santa María Nogueira

The scenes represented in Santa María de Nogueira, among which is the Resurrection of Christ and the Last Judgment, are very representative of the historical moment in which they were made since they transmit the prevailing message in the Spain of the Counter Reformation.

La church wall painting It was one of the ways Catholic Church conveyed his message.

The paintings of Santa María de Nogueira They are made by several artists over a certain period of time, which means that we find works of different style and quality.

In any case, they all respond to a didactic function.

Most of them were created during the 15th and 16th centuries and are of Gothic style y Renaissance, although it is very likely that there were Romanesque paintings which were covered by later ones.

The ship paintings are attributed to the call Master of Nogueira, who must have worked around 1560 with a clear Italian influence and carried out work on other temples in the area.

On the south wall, on the right as you enter, we find the scene of the Resurrección, in which four women appear as witnesses on the left, although one's face is barely visible.

It is a curious detail since in Bible It is said that there were three women who witnessed the event; however, in the Apocryphal Gospels The idea does appear that Joseph of Arimathea, disguised as a woman, accompanied them, and this could be the fourth character.

Some of the soldiers guarding the tomb appear awake, although canonical texts state that they were asleep.

This is another of the details that suggests that the paintings are based on the Apocryphal Gospels.

On the same wall, on the other side of the door, appears the image of the Coronation of Saint Mary.

Opposite, on the north wall, we find the scene of Final judgment. Here Christ in Majesty receives a group of people led by the Virgin Mary.

Below we see the souls in the Purgatorio, resurrection of the dead and San Pedro guiding souls towards heaven.

The part that represented hell disappeared when the door opened to the Dawn Chapel.

A curiosity is that it is assumed that the Count of Lemos who ordered the creation of the paintings appears portrayed among the Apostles, while his wife would be the model for the image of The Virgin.

Above the triumphal arch that separates the nave from the presbytery appears the Annunciation scene, with the archangel on the left side and The Virgin in the right.

Below is San Sebastian shot with arrows, a very frequent image in Galicia, and the Holy Trinity in which the father It has human features, something very rare at that time.

At presbytery, the space in front of the altar and which appears defined by four columns supporting two triumphal arches, there are also very interesting paintings.

On the north wall, where the access to the sacristy is located, different scenes of the Passion of Christ, such as flagellation and way of Calvary.

On the south side of the presbytery appear the Prayer in the Garden and the arrest at the time of judas kiss.

In the vault of the presbytery we find an image of the firmament with the Moon and the four winds represented by human heads blowing.

Although the paintings are obviously the main attraction of the church, we should not leave without appreciating the high altar and two side altars, all of Baroque.

Schedule to visit Santa María de Nogueira church in Lugo

The Visiting hours of Santa María de Nogueira They are, every day, from 12 to 13 p.m. and from 17 to 18 p.m., although it is advisable to call 699 122 740 in advance.

La entrance to Santa María de Nogueira is free.