France

10 essentials: what to see and do in Mulhouse (Alsace) in one day

Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia
Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia

On the recent trip to French region of Alsace to see Christmas markets, I not only visited the city of Strasbourg, but I have also had the opportunity to meet Mulhouse, another city that has interesting attractions.

Located south of this border region with Germany, is a city that has about 125.000 inhabitants and an important industrial history dedicated to textile, chemical and railway production.

But you should know that Mulhouse It is a place with a long tradition as an independent republic linked to the neighboring Swiss cantons, which is very close to the German cities of Freiburg y Belfort, and just 30 kilometers from the Swiss city of Balisea.

Now when visiting this city, in addition to being able see a christmas market which has great charm, you can visit various places that reflect that industrial past and as an independent republic.

Curiosities history of Mulhouse in Alsace

Mulhouse It was founded in the 7th century and is younger than other cities in Alsacia dating back to the 4th century.

In the Middle Ages It was part of an alliance of 10 Alsatian cities, but its history is marked by the attack it suffered at the end of the XNUMXth century by the Holy German Empire.

Stock Exchange Square in Mulhouse in Alsace
Stock Exchange Square in Mulhouse in Alsace

Then the nobility of Mulhouse It joined the Germans, and the city did not receive help from the other cities of the alliance, so it then separated from it and in 1515 they decided to join the Swiss cantons.

That was the beginning of its stage as a city and independent republic.

In 1525 came the Lutheran Reformation, the Catholics were expelled, and Mulhouse it turned into a calvinist city.

It was already in 1746 when the first textile factory emerged, specifically for the production of printed fabrics, and from then on this industry had great development and Mulhouse It became a wealthy republic.

Precisely facilitating this development was what led to Mulhouse finally in 1798 it joined France, 10 years after the French Revolution.

House from 1704 in the historic center of Mulhouse in Alsace
House from 1704 in the historic center of Mulhouse in Alsace

When he integrated into France, Mulhouse had a great industrial development, for example with the installation of the train factory that is now the current one Alstom, manufacturer of high-speed trains, trams and cruise ships.

This industrial development was reflected in the distribution of the city since textile factories were concentrated in the northern part of it.

West of Mulhouse It is where the factories dedicated to the production of railway machinery were installed, and the southern part became a residential area for the wealthiest people.

Finally, during the Second World War the city of Mulhouse suffered significant bombing, including an attack by the English who, it was recently learned, thought they were bombing the nearby German city of Freiburg.

What to see and do when visiting Mulhouse in one day

Currently when you visit Mulhouse You will discover that it is a very cosmopolitan city with a large population from more than 40 countries, which has been concentrating in this French city due to the great industrial activity that it continues to maintain.

Urban art on a shop facade in Mulhouse in Alsace
Urban art on a shop facade in Mulhouse in Alsace

And a good example of this is the large automobile factory that Peugeot has about Mulhouse, which has attracted many people from numerous backgrounds who have settled in the city to work in it.

That is, you will not find a historic center with a large architectural complex, as can happen in other medieval cities, since the aforementioned bombings took their toll on the Mulhouse heritage.

But on a walk through the center you will be able to see some historic buildings and numerous houses with paintings on their facades, both old and current.

Below I am going to point out the most notable places that you should visit in your one day visit complete to the city of Mulhouse, during a trip through Alsace.

What to see and do at the Mulhouse Christmas Market in Alsace

And I start talking about Mulhouse Christmas market, which logically you can only visit during the season of Advent in the month of December, but it is one of the most common reasons to carry out a trip to Alsace.

Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia
Christmas market in Mulhouse in Alscacia

Concentrated in the main square of the city, the Reunion Square, has the difference with respect to the best known of Strasbourg y Colmar It is not at all saturated with tourists because all the visitors are local people.

But that does not prevent you from visit Mulhouse at Christmas time, you meet a Christmas market with incredible charm.

This is due to its location in a square with an imposing protestant temple and the spectacular building of the old town hall, to which you add the great lighting of all the buildings in the square and the large Ferris wheel that is located between the wooden stalls of the market.

In the latter you find the typical offering of artisans and local foods, all wrapped in the characteristic aroma of the cinnamon smell of mulled wine.

Protestant Church of St. Stephen in Mulhouse

The quoted protestant temple is a neogothic building built in 1866. which was initially a Catholic church, but later became a headquarters of the Protestant religion.

Protestant Church of Saint Stephen in Mulhouse in Alsace
Protestant Church of Saint Stephen in Mulhouse in Alsace

Inside you can see some stained glass windows that belonged to a previous church, and which are the oldest preserved in Alsace.

La St. Stephen's Church Currently it is the reflection of the power of the Protestants in the city because, although they are already a minority, they continue to maintain a preeminent position as they are the owners of local industries.

In this regard it should be noted that until 1806 Mulhouse It was under a very harsh Protestant regime, since only Protestants could reside in the city; Jews and Catholics, after their day's work, could not remain in the city overnight.

Currently it has become a concert hall where a musical event is scheduled every Saturday.

Mulhouse Old Town Hall

But if there is a building that stands out in the Reunion Square de Mulhouse is the old Town Hall, true emblem of the city.

Government room of the old town hall of Mulhouse
Government room of the old town hall of Mulhouse

It is a beautiful building built in Renaissance style in 1551, with two staircases that open on both sides and with the facades completely painted in a striking pink tone.

These paintings show the shields of the Republic of Mulhouse, and in the upper area of ​​the façade the figures of the virtues are represented.

Inside it houses the Mulhouse Historical Museum, which you can visit for free every day of the year, except Tuesdays and holidays, with schedules from 13 p.m. to 18,30:10 p.m., and in July and August, from 12 a.m. to 13 p.m. and from 18,3 p.m. to XNUMX:XNUMX p.m.

Inside, be sure to visit the large room that was the historic headquarters of the gobierno of the aforementioned Republic of Mulhouse, whose walls and ceilings are decorated with paintings that reflect that era.

Maison Mieg in Mulhouse

In the Reunion Square There are other beautiful buildings that form an interesting architectural complex, among which the Maison Mieg Renaissance style, bourgeois house built in 1418 that you will recognize by its tower and its paintings from 1799 on the façade.

Buildings on the Place de la Reunion in Mulhouse in Alsace
Buildings on the Place de la Reunion in Mulhouse in Alsace

Mulhouse Automobile City Museum

During my recent trip someone told me that above all it is worth it visit Mulhouse, it is to know the Automobile City, a museum that has become the main focus of attracting tourists to the city.

And the truth is that this visit has been left pending for another trip to Alsace, but I tell you that this automobile museum has its origin in the collection that the brothers Schlumpf, owners of a textile factory, began hoarding in 1961.

Opened to the public in 2006, it is one of the most important automobile museums in the world where you can see 243 classic cars, including a Bugatti royale.

St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse

St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse in Alsace
St. John's Chapel in Mulhouse in Alsace

The eastern area of ​​the historic center of Mulhouse in the Middle Ages It was mainly a residential area of ​​the Catholic population, in which churches and monasteries were concentrated, some run by the religious orders of chivalry.

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That is the case of the Chapel of San Juan, now a small church that belonged in the 13th century to a monastery of the order of maltese.

After Protestant Reformation It was abandoned and then had various uses, until in the 19th century it was decided to rehabilitate it and today it is a venue for concerts or events.

Currently, the Chapel of San Juan It is one of the oldest buildings in Mulhouse and inside there are paintings from the 16th century.

How to see Urban Art in Mulhouse

Urban art on a building in Mulhouse
Urban art on a building in Mulhouse

Something that will catch your attention on your walk through Mulhouse is to see numerous building facades decorated with paintings from different periods, including the most current ones.

I will tell you that in the city they are cataloged up to 60 buildings with paintings on their facades, which follow the tradition of previous times, and whose best example is the aforementioned fully decorated façade of the Town Hall.

Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse

Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse
Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse

In one of the most beautiful buildings in Mulhouse you find one of the industrial museums that you can visit in this Alsatian city.

This is the Museum of Printed Fabrics whose origin dates back to 1833, when the city's textile industrialists decided to create a collection of the fabrics they were designing, which currently has more than 6 million pieces.

The museum opened to the public in 1955, and during your visit you will be able to see a permanent exhibition of machinery and fabric designs from the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries, as well as Temporary exhibitions.

Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse
Museum of Printed Fabrics in Mulhouse

This museum reflects the great rise of fabric printing industry in Mulhouse, a city that in the 150th century had up to 70 factories, although after the crisis of the XNUMXs of the last century, there are almost no factories left.

In the museum you can see textile machinery from Manchester, and in fact Mulhouse It was known in the 19th century as the french manchester.

It should be noted that every year, at Christmas time, a special fabric design is made that becomes the protagonist in the city's Christmas decoration.

Thus, you find this design integrated into the decorative elements installed in the city, or in tablecloths and curtains used in restaurants and homes during these dates.

Mulhouse Market

Mulhouse market in Alsace
Mulhouse market in Alsace

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you already know that when we travel we like to visit the markets because they are a good reflection of what a city is like.

El Mulhouse market It is a perfect place to take the pulse of this Alsatian city as it shows its very cosmopolitan character, since there you will find not only local products from the region, but also from other areas of the world, from the Magreb to China.

Open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, from 7 in the morning to 5 in the afternoon, with 350 positions installed in the building The Halle and in the exterior esplanades that surround it, due to its size it is the third market in France.

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The Halle It is a building built in 1910, and inside there are fresh food stalls, while outside you find fruits and vegetables, as well as other products, including clothing.

It should be noted that on Saturdays there is a special area dedicated to small local producers.

Alsace Ecomuseum in Mulhouse

Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France
Alsace Ecomuseum in Ungesheim near Mulhouse in France

On your trip to Mulhouse You have the opportunity to visit a very interesting museum that is located just 15 kilometers from the city, in the small town of ungersheim.

This is the Ecomuseum of Alsace, a living museum of rural architecture where more than 70 houses and other types of traditional buildings dating back to the late XNUMXth and early XNUMXth centuries are preserved.

Since 1973, these buildings have been recovered and moved to the current location of the museum, which opened to the public in 1984, and currently emulates a small traditional Alsatian village, yes, all original buildings.

On your pleasant walk through the Ecomuseum of Alsace You can see everything from farms to workshops of artisans of different trades, so you can see firsthand the rural atmosphere characteristic of this French region.

Where to eat Alsatian food in Mulhouse

Alsatian tavern Le Cellier in Mulhouse
Alsatian tavern Le Cellier in Mulhouse

Finally, for your trip, if you want to try the most typical Alsatian food, I am going to make you two totally different proposals.

On one hand, the restaurant Le Cellier in the center of the city, a typical Alsatian tavern (winstub) of clear German style with informal food, where you can taste some of the region's specialties.

For example, Bibalakase, a type of white cheese that is eaten with herbs, onion and garlic, accompanied by potatoes and cheese munster.

O Fleischnacka, a dish that is presented in the shape of a meat tail, but is actually a pasta that can be made with three different types of meat.

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Maison Kieny Restaurant near Mulhouse
Maison Kieny Restaurant near Mulhouse

And on the other hand the restaurant Maison Kieny, in the nearby town of Riedisheim, and a sign that the high kitchen It also has a place in Mulhouse.

This is an establishment with a Michelin star whose gastronomic offer reinvents traditional Alsatian food.

To point out the original presentation of a typical Alsatian sausage board.

About the Author

José Luis Sarralde

Journalist and traveler throughout his life, José Luis Sarralde is the founder of Guías Viajar, where since 2008 he has been capturing his travel experiences around the world, specializing in cultural and scenic destinations in Spain and Europe.

Comments

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  • Belfort, contrary to what is stated in this blog, is not German. she is Alsatian and therefore French. I was lucky enough to live and grow up there for 10 years, and I still have family and friends there, which is a magnet for me to return often despite the distance of 1.600km.

  • Beautiful Bellfort. Don't miss the Lion of Belfort... Mulhouse... great!! I was there three days... the museum, the automobile... a sad story of a dream. Beautiful corners... it smells fresh... great food... very friendly people. I loved Alsace. I hope to return. I congratulate you for living in such a magnificent land!

  • A very nice and fair description of Mulhouse, I live in the neighboring region, the Territory of Belfort.

  • I was once in Milhouse, it was in passing we were sitting in a bar in Reunion Square and the paintings on the houses and the grandeur of the square clearly caught my attention. Last year I was going to return again and since there was a workers' strike yellow vests, they canceled the trip, now Covid we don't know when it will let us travel, let's wait.
    I loved reading your information.
    Thank you
    regards

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