France

What to see in Collioure, between the traces of Machado and Fauvism

Bell tower at the port of Collioure in Perpignan
Bell tower at the port of Collioure in Perpignan south of France

The only one "but" What can I put on my recent Collioure visit is not having had more time to enjoy the charm of this beautiful town in the south of France, in the area of ​​the the Eastern Pyrenees..

Indeed, when you start your walk through Collioure on the outskirts of its port, you already realize that you are in a beautiful town. in one of those places that contain a very special charm.

Therefore it will not surprise you that it is considered the great jewel of the department of perpignan, Near Catalonia.

 
 

But also Collioure It has a very special meaning for the Spanish.

This is Collioure, the traces of painters and Machado

Indeed, it was the place where the poet Antonio Machado took refuge during the Civil War, and after dying a few days after his arrival, he was buried in his cemetery, which has become a must-see.

In view of the tower of his Royal Castle and, above all, of the great fortification that surrounds the access to the Collioure port, you realize that it is an enclave with a long history.

This is currently combined with the charm of a mediterranean town, with houses whose facades show pastel colors.

If you didn't know, you won't be surprised to learn that the most beautiful corners of Collioure have been portrayed by prestigious painters, such as Picasso, Chagall o Matisse.

Port of Collioure in Perpignan south of France
Port of Collioure in Perpignan south of France

Curiosities of the history of Collioure

What's more, the warmth of its colors with the Mediterranean light has been the protagonist of the development of the artistic trend of fauvism, with the striking use of colors, and whose precursor was the aforementioned Matisse.

The special coastal location of Collioure It already led the Phoenicians to convert it into one of their settlement places on the Mediterranean coast.

By Collioure The Romans and the Visigoths also passed through.

 
 

And it was in the year 981 when the counts of Roussillon and kings of Mallorca They began to build the fortification.

At the end of the 13th century Collioure It was the summer residence of the latter, and during that century it was the starting port of various crusades towards Holy Land, passing through the Templar, the monks cistercians and dominican.

Landscapes of Collioure in Perpignan in the south of France
Landscapes of Collioure in Perpignan in the south of France

Centuries later, in 1642, the Catalans of this area north of the Pyrenees suffered occupation by French troops.

In that period, Vauban, the famous military engineer of Louis XIV, built the fortifications that you can now see in your Collioure visit.

Fauvism Corners in Collioure, Our Experience

During my short Collioure visitIn addition to enjoying the beautiful lights of the sunset, I participated in a walk along the path of fauvism.

It is an urban route during which you find 20 panels with reproductions of paintings made in Collioure by Matisse y Derain, which is organized by the Tourist Office and an association of tourist guides.

In the same port you will find a metal structure that emulates the frame of a painting with the image of the bell tower, one of the emblematic corners of Collioure many times portrayed.

Path of Fauvism at Collioure in Perpignan in the south of France
Path of Fauvism at Collioure in Perpignan in the south of France

But it is when you enter the interior of the historic center and walk through its narrow and steep streets you will see that the colors have the greatest prominence there.

It is at that moment when you really feel immersed in the environment that undoubtedly inspired the artists fauvists.

On this walk you will find numerous craft, fashion and even art galleries, and it is in these alleys where you can enjoy the real Collioure charm.

Antonio Machado in Collioure

Antonio Machado He arrived in Collioure in January 1939, fleeing from the Civil War and the Francoist advance, along with his mother, brother and sister-in-law, after crossing the border exhausted with the little they had.

He died shortly after, on February 22, 1939, just a month after his arrival, in a modest room of the Bougnol-Quintana Hotel, accompanied only by his family, weakened by exile, cold and illness.

Antonio Machado's residence house in Collioure
Antonio Machado's residence house in Collioure

The reception in Collioure It was warm on the part of the neighbors and some Spanish exiles, who tried to help and accompany the family.

Machado and his mother, Ana Ruiz, shared a room during his final days. They were both dying, and the poet barely left the hotel. His mother died just three days after him and is buried next to him.

The burial was held in the presence of Republican exiles and local authorities, who carried the coffin draped in the tricolor flag.

In his coat pocket, his brother José found a piece of paper with the last verse written by Machado: “These blue days and this sun of childhood.”

How to see Machado's tomb in the Collioure cemetery

Now your visit of Collioure You must complete it by approaching the cemetery, which is located very close to the port, where you can see the grave of Antonio Machado.

Tomb of Antonio Machado in Collioure in Perpignan
Tomb of Antonio Machado in Collioure in Perpignan

On the way to the cemetery, on the street named after the artist, you will pass by the house that was his residence during his short stay in Collioure, which is now semi-abandoned.

And what better way to finish your visit of Collioure have to dine on the terrace of one of the port's restaurants, among which La Leon House It is a recommended option.

Photos of Collioure

Here you have more photos of Collioure, in the department of Perpignan in the south of France.

 
 

About the Author

José Luis Sarralde

Journalist and traveler throughout his life, José Luis Sarralde is the founder of Guías Viajar, where since 2008 he has been capturing his travel experiences around the world, specializing in cultural and scenic destinations in Spain and Europe.

Comments

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  • I need to contact Mr. Jose Luis Sarralde... for a beautiful photo of the Collioure Bell Tower, where my parents (who have been dead for years) coincidentally appear sitting on a bench, next to a cannon... I would appreciate knowing when that photo was taken, since we did not know about his visit to Collioure. Please... some more direct contact with Mr Sarralde... I am from ARGENTINA and I would be happy to know something about that photo (cover of another page WHAT TO DO IN COLLIOURE) - THANK YOU!!!

  • ON THE FRENCH LAND
    The heart is excited
    without understanding the reasons,
    although nothing solves
    the suffered conclusions.

    When you tour Collioure
    always thinking about Machado,
    the landscape discovers you
    that its sea is enchanted.

    On the French land
    with inconsolable crying,
    that Machado returns
    to a helpless world.

    That damn war
    that the brothers suffered,
    today he keeps underground
    many inhuman treatments.

    The cries of their footprints
    They left behind mourning,
    there are no beautiful battles
    with mutilated soldiers.

    Exile was torment
    with its paths sung,
    no one wants to be present
    in soldier duels.

    Path walkers
    that they left for France,
    His signs were very sad,
    “and some did not return.”

    The border of destiny
    has its course marked,
    Machado looked like a fortune teller
    on his forced path.

    Always flowers on his grave
    with quiet feelings,
    there are gestures that are loves
    and they never look broken.
    GX Cantalapiedra.

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